Caring for Rabbits (DO's and DON'Ts)

DO's

Always keep your feed and water clean and fresh. Diseases can easily occur through contaminated food and water.
Allthe time, keep the water crocks clean.
Supply fresh water every day.
Keep the hutches clean and repair them when it is needed.
After each litter, clean and disinfect the nest box. New born rabbits have high risk of having diseases. An infected one will make the other ones sick too.
Have proper knowledge of rabbit diseases and proper cures. Contact a veterinarian if you are not sure of the illness.
Always isolate all the rabbits coming into the rabbitry, include those ones which come from rabbit shows and fairs.
If possible use all-wire cages so that the animals would not contact with urine and droppings. It will eliminate sore hocks and urine burn.
After a litter has been removed from the cage, sear all the hutch wire with a small blow torch. This will insure the health of the next rabbit and litter coming to this cage.
Be sure to choose disease-free and disease-resistant rabbits. The bargains may be tempting but you will be not able to produce healthy animals.
Always try to have one buck for every eight to ten does.
Put salt in front of each rabbit at all times.
If any rabbit becomes too fat, cut down on its ration.
If any rabbit does not gain proper weight at all, give it additional feed. At times one or two of a litter especially a young one; will be pushed by the others. If providing additional feed to the rabbit does not solve the problem, remove the underfed rabbits and place them in a separate hutch where they would be able to get a proper ration.
Watch your animals for ear mites. A good sign of ear canker is when the rabbit pulls its ear down and scratches it. Ear canker is painful to the animals and it may spread easily in the rabbitry.
Provide your hutch with plenty shade and good ventilation. Direct sunlight may cause problems.
Always place a nest box in the hutch three or four days before the doe is due to kindle.
If there is a local rabbit club in your area, get yourself involved in the club. Also join the American rabbit association, It will give you more knowledge and ideas for improving your rabbitry.
Watch your rabbits for sore hocks which can be extremely painful.
Always lift your rabbit by the fold of skin behind the neck and over the shoulders, while supporting the hindquarters with your other hand.
Every day maintain a regular schedule to water and feed your animals.
Always take the doe to the buck’s cage for mating.
Wean fryer litters at eight weeks of age, or sooner if they come up to weight before then.
If you are planning to sell pelts, insure that all your animals are kept clean, well stretched, and attractive.
Always take care of your rabbits with lots of love and kindness.

DON'Ts

Do not transfer your animals from one cage to another, without completely cleaning and disinfecting the cages.
Never feed moldy and dirty food.
Do not leave your feed sacks open.
Do not bring a new rabbit into the rabbitry right away. Isolate it for a period of time.
Do not allow any visitors in the rabbitry, especially rabbit breeders who could transmit diseases.
Do not keep your rabbits in direct sunlight.
Do not purchase a rabbit which has a record of low production and loss of youngs.
Never try to breed rabbits which are in poor health.
Young ones should not be bred before they are ready.
Do not use a buck for mating more than three times a week as a general rule.
Never over feed your animals.
Do not try to cure any disease if you are not sure; call a veterinarian immediately.
Never use a buck under six months of age for mating.
Do not make your rabbits overly fat.
Do not change brands of feed rapidly.
Dogs and cats should not be allowed around the rabbitry.
Never over breed your does. Four litters a year are adequate for one doe.
Never let manure to pile up in the hutches.
Do not handle sick animals at the same time you handle the well ones.
Never use disinfecting solutions that have become dirty or polluted.